After exploring the charming town of Cavtat, our journey continued with a crossing back into Croatia’s mainland to visit the breathtaking Krka National Park. To make the most of our trip, we decided to spend the night in Split, a city renowned for its historical allure and vibrant atmosphere. This stopover not only allowed us to soak in the wonders of Split, but also ensured an early start to Krka the following morning. With the park just a short drive from the city, we were perfectly positioned to experience its stunning waterfalls in the tranquil early hours.
Originally, we had planned to stop at the palace where scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed, but we didn’t have enough time. And honestly, I wasn’t too disappointed. I’ve realized I’m not the kind of traveler who chases places just because they’re trending. I don’t feel the need to tick boxes or say, “I was there too.” I prefer moments that feel meaningful to me. So instead, we stopped at “The Brothers,” a Bosnian restaurant, for roasted lamb again and a relaxed lunch, and that felt much more like us.
A Night in Split
When we arrived in Split, I thought we were simply visiting a historical site. I didn’t expect to feel what I felt there. The heart of the city is Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site built in the 4th century for the Roman Emperor Diocletian. But calling it just a “palace” doesn’t do it justice. It’s not a monument you walk around, it’s a living part of the city. Shops, cafés, homes, and restaurants are built right into the ancient stone walls.
Walking through the Silver Gate, one of the palace’s original entrances, felt like stepping into another time. Inside, the narrow stone streets open into small squares full of life. The central square, known as the Peristyle, completely surprised me. Ancient Roman columns rise around you, and in the middle of it all, people were sitting on the steps, listening to live music under the open sky. It didn’t feel like a museum; it felt alive.
Right there stands the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, originally built as Diocletian’s mausoleum. The idea that a Roman emperor’s tomb became a Christian cathedral fascinated me. The bell tower dominates the skyline, and the entire area carries this powerful mix of history and daily life blending together effortlessly.
I can imagine Split looking clearer and brighter in daylight, where every architectural detail stands out. But at night, it had something else, something softer and more emotional. The warm lights against the ancient stones, the music echoing in the square, people sitting, talking, enjoying the moment. It was less about seeing history and more about feeling it.
Everything impressed me there. Not because it was famous, but because it was real, alive, and beautifully imperfect.
In Split, the promenade, known as the Riva, is the heartbeat of the city. It stretches along the waterfront, right beside Diocletian’s Palace, and somehow manages to feel both elegant and relaxed at the same time.
What I loved about the Riva is how open it feels. On one side, you have the Adriatic, wide and calm, with ferries and boats coming and going. On the other side, palm trees line the walkway, and behind them rise the old stone walls of the palace. It’s such a beautiful contrast, sea, palms, and Roman history all in one place.
Split was such a lovely city to explore, and one night simply wasn’t enough. It gave us just a glimpse of what the city has to offer, and we couldn’t help wishing we had planned an extra day or two to discover it properly. Since we had to leave very early the next morning for Krka National Park, we missed the chance to wander through its streets in daylight. I’m sure the city has a completely different charm and energy during the day.
Even so, our evening in Split more than made up for it. The atmosphere was simply wonderful. We spent hours strolling through the historic Old Town, soaking up its lively streets, beautiful architecture, and waterfront ambiance. As the sun slowly set over the Adriatic, the city became even more enchanting. We left with wonderful memories and one promise to ourselves: next time, we’ll stay longer.
Krka National Park
While Plitvice Lakes National Park is often considered Croatia’s top natural attraction, Krka National Park is another gem that absolutely deserves attention. The park is vast, green, and incredibly beautiful. Walking through it feels almost unreal, wooden pathways floating above water, lush greenery all around, and waterfalls cascading in the background. It has this calm, dreamy atmosphere that makes you slow down without even trying.
When we reached one of the higher viewpoints, the view completely surprised us. From above, the waterfalls and pools looked stunning, layered and endless. We honestly started wondering, is Krka underrated? Do people just focus on Plitvice and forget about this place? Or is Plitvice truly that much more spectacular? We were actually excited by the thought of discovering something equally beautiful but less talked about.
That said, the humidity and the crowds can be overwhelming, especially in peak season. At times it felt a bit intense, and the peaceful atmosphere competes with the number of visitors. But even with that, the natural beauty is undeniable.
We started our walk on a wooden boardwalk, shaded by trees and surrounded by water. We could see fish swimming below and ducks moving peacefully between the reeds. It felt magical at first. But very quickly, we realized how humid it was. The air felt heavy, almost thick, and within minutes we were sweating. It wasn’t the kind of place where you could stand still for too long, you just kept walking, hoping to reach an open spot where a little breeze might rescue you.
Still, at every turn, the views were beautiful. Water flowing everywhere, layers of greenery, small cascades appearing unexpectedly. No matter how warm it felt, the scenery kept pulling us forward.
Finally, we reached an open area facing the waterfalls, and the breeze created by them felt like a reward after that long, humid walk.
The view was stunning, layers of water rushing down over rocks, surrounded by endless green. We stood there quietly for a while, just watching. Of course, we took some photos, trying to capture the moment, though it’s never quite the same as seeing it with your own eyes. After resting and cooling down, we continued our walk.
There are picnic areas throughout the park, and near Skradinski Buk, the park’s most famous site, you’ll find the impressive series of 17 cascading waterfalls. It’s truly stunning and makes the park especially fun for families. (Swimming used to be allowed in certain areas near Skradinski Buk, which made it even more special, though rules change over time.) The scale of the waterfalls, especially when seen up close, is powerful and mesmerizing.
You can also take boat tours within the park that lead to places like Visovac Monastery, sitting peacefully on a tiny island in the middle of the river, or to Roški Slap, another beautiful cascade with a quieter atmosphere. These little excursions add another dimension to the experience.
At the end of the walk, we found informational boards displaying photos and details about the park’s bird and butterfly species. It was actually lovely to stop there, read together, and cool down a little. Informative, simple, and something the whole family could enjoy after the long humid walk.
Tips For Your Visit To Krka National Park
- Stay nearby: I highly recommend staying in a town close to Krka National Park, such as Šibenik or Skradin. Arriving early in the morning lets you enjoy the waterfalls before the crowds arrive, making the experience much more peaceful.
- Book your tickets: You can purchase your ticket on arrival, but it’s also possible to buy them online in advance from the official website click here
- Wear proper footwear: Comfortable clothes and non-slip shoes are a must. The wooden boardwalks can become damp from the waterfalls and humidity, making them surprisingly slippery.
- Bring plenty of water: Carry a refillable water bottle, especially in summer. I remember there was a drinking fountain near the park’s exit, close to the display with the bird and butterfly information panels, where you can refill your bottle.
- Pack a picnic: Bringing your own food is a great idea. We found a lovely shaded spot near the natural pools, sat down with our sandwiches, and simply enjoyed the peaceful surroundings. It ended up being one of my favorite moments of the day.
- Take your time: My best tip is not to rush. Krka National Park is about much more than its famous waterfalls. Slow down, enjoy the sound of the rushing water, wander along the boardwalks, and take as many photos as you can. Long after your trip is over, those photos will bring you right back to that beautiful moment.
- Protect yourself from the sun: During summer, the Croatian sun can be surprisingly strong. A hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses will make your visit much more comfortable, especially if you’re spending several hours exploring.
- Protect your phone: Since you’re surrounded by water for most of the visit, consider bringing a waterproof phone pouch. It gives you peace of mind when leaning over railings for photos or walking along the boardwalks near the waterfalls, especially if you’re like me and always have your phone in hand.
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