Three days around Mostar
After our tour in Sarajevo, we planned to travel to Mostar, a charming city in the Balkans best known for its iconic old bridge, Stari Most, which stands as a proud symbol of the city. Mostar is a highly desired tourist destination, especially for visitors from neighboring countries taking day trips. During the day, the city can be bustling with groups and guided tours, but in the evening it quiets down, revealing a more intimate and peaceful side. Despite the crowds, Mostar is absolutely worth a visit for its rich history, stunning architecture, delicious food, and striking beauty.
During our stay, we noticed that Mostar truly comes alive in both day and night. Soft lights glow on the old stone buildings, music drifts through the streets, and the city feels calmer and cooler. People enjoy Bosnian kebabs in the many inviting restaurants or relax in cozy pubs, soaking in the unique ambiance of this historic city.
Initially, we considered renting a car, but prices were high at that time. Instead, we opted for the train journey from Sarajevo to Mostar, which turned out to be comfortable and scenic. At the train station, there were numerous taxis to take us to our accommodation at reasonable rates. Later, we rented a car to fully enjoy our three-day stay and explore neighboring attractions.
Our accommodation was near the old town, which allowed us to enjoy morning walks and evening strolls when it was quieter. During the day, the streets can get crowded with day-trip visitors, making it less comfortable to wander. Experiencing Mostar in the early morning or after sunset, however, lets you truly appreciate the timeless charm and beauty of the city.
Mostar Bridge
The Mostar Old Bridge is an ancient Ottoman bridge that was tragically destroyed during the Bosnian War but was later rebuilt.
I still remember seeing the bridge being destroyed on the news when I was a teenager. I couldn’t believe standing there as a tourist years later. Being there gave me a profound feeling of hope and peace.
Stari Most or the Old Bridge is not only a popular tourist destination but also the symbol and identity of Mostar, appearing in every photo or picture of the city. It has become a center of diving, where you can witness free jump shows multiple times throughout the day. Divers jump to collect money from tourists who watch the jumps or record them. The best spot to watch is from a café right below the bridge, where you can sip your coffee while enjoying the stunning view of the bridge, the river, and the jumps. It’s a perfect blend of history, thrill, and the everyday life of Mostar.
Kujundziluk
Nothing is more enjoyable than strolling through the old streets of Mostar. The city is full of beautiful souvenir and handicraft shops, traditional houses, and charming cafés and inviting restaurants, many of which line the river and offer breathtaking views of the Neretva. The gentle sound of the water, the smell of fresh coffee, and the warmth of the sun on the stone streets make wandering here truly relaxing. You can also take small boat tours on the Neretva River, which give a unique perspective of the city and allow you to admire the famous Stari Most from the water, a perfect way to combine sightseeing with a touch of adventure.
Karadoz Bey Mosque
Karadoz Bey Mosque in Mostar is an old Ottoman mosque and one of the oldest in the region. It suffered damage during the wars but has been reconstructed, along with much of Mostar, after the conflict. The mosque is big and beautiful, definitely worth a visit.
Sometimes, there is nothing more to do in Mostar than simply stroll and observe. Wander through the old stone streets, enjoy every corner, every viewpoint, and let the city reveal itself slowly. Take time to look into the souvenir and handicraft shops, admire the handmade details, sit at a small café, and watch life pass by. Mostar doesn’t ask you to rush, it invites you to pause, look around, and appreciate its beauty, one quiet moment at a time.
Kravica Waterfall
While we were in Bosnia & Herzegovina, it was impossible to miss the Kravica Waterfalls. These beautiful natural cascades are located on the Trebižat River, about 40 km south of Mostar, and form an impressive semi-circular shape that feels almost like a man-made painting, yet it was shaped entirely by nature, created by the One who keeps spoiling us with so many beautiful places and breathtaking views. We went by car, but if you don’t have one, it’s easy to reach Kravica with a guided tour from Mostar, as I wouldn’t recommend public buses if you’re on a tight schedule, as punctuality can be unpredictable.
This stunning location is truly a must-visit. As you descend toward the falls, the landscape slowly opens up, and the feeling is honestly indescribable. The blue-green water, and the surrounding lush greenery, creates a beautiful scene that leaves you speechless. I didn’t swim, being loyal to the sea, but my family did, along with many other visitors. You’re not allowed to get too close to the falls themselves, which actually helps preserve the natural beauty and keeps the area safe.
Afterward, we found a quiet spot under a tree, away from the main crowd, and took a short nap. Closing your eyes while listening to the sound of running water, birds tweeting, and the occasional laughter or splash from passing boats that wake you up from time to time, is incredibly amazing.
At Kravica Waterfalls, you can enjoy a variety of activities, including swimming, kayaking, renting a small boat, or simply relaxing in the shade while feeling the refreshing breeze from the water. There are also several restaurants and cafés nearby, perfect for a meal or a coffee with a view.
P.S: My advice is simple, plan a full day here. Don’t rush it, and don’t squeeze it between other activities, this is a place meant to be fully enjoyed, slowly and mindfully.
Balagaj Tekija
Blagaj Tekija is, as you can see in the photos, incredibly beautiful. History, culture, spirituality, peace, reflection, and tranquility, everything good you can imagine—comes together in this magical place. I visited Blagaj because it was on the to-do list while staying in Mostar, especially the famous Dervish House, recommended by so many people. Still, I truly didn’t expect this level of beauty or the joy we experienced there.
Blagaj Tekija is dramatically located beneath a towering cliff, right beside the source of the Buna River, which emerges from a cave at the base of the rock. You can take a small boat inside the cave to see the source of the river. The water is freezing cold, even on the hottest days, the kind of cold that makes you scream the second your foot touches it. I sat on a rock at the edge, challenging myself to see how long I could keep my feet in the water, all while admiring the stunning landscape and the Tekija itself. The Tekija (Dervish House) is an Ottoman monastery that you can visit, and it blends so perfectly with nature that it feels like it has always belonged there.
The area is lined with restaurants and cafés along the riverside, where you can enjoy traditional food with breathtaking views of the river and the monastery. We visited in the late afternoon, and the atmosphere was incredibly relaxing, soaking in the beauty of the place, my son playing happily with the ducks, my husband… well, I almost forgot about him. lol
If you’re lucky enough to visit when it’s quiet, you’ll understand exactly what I mean. Blagaj has a way of slowing you down, calming your thoughts, and making you simply feel.
Pocitelj
Pocitelj is a beautiful Ottoman heritage town perched on a cliff, renowned for its stunning stone architecture. The entire town is built from stone, its houses, stairways, and paths, creating a seamless and deeply historic atmosphere. What truly sets Počitelj apart is the absence of flat streets; you are always either climbing up or walking down countless stone steps. This unique feature adds greatly to the town’s charm and authenticity.
I clearly remember climbing those stairs, admiring the old houses, and suddenly feeling incredibly thirsty. Just the sight of the stone and the endless stairs made me crave water. As we almost reached the top near the mosque, I spotted a cooler. I rushed toward it, desperate for a drink. A local lady was selling blackberry juice, poured into reused mineral water bottles. For the first time, I didn’t care about hygiene at all, I simply drank it. It tasted unbelievably good. I still don’t know if it was truly that delicious, or if my thirst made it feel like the best juice I had ever had.
At the base of Pocitelj, where visitors usually park, you’ll find small restaurants and souvenir shops that offer a warm and welcoming start to the visit. As you climb higher, the town rewards you with breathtaking views from several viewpoints, especially from the metal-and-glass terrace and the area near the mosque. These spots provide panoramic views that perfectly capture Pocitelj’s dramatic and picturesque setting.
Visiting Pocitelj feels like stepping back into Ottoman times. The town suffered greatly during the war, with heavy bombardment forcing many residents to flee. Over time, some have returned, and today you’ll see locals selling fruits, walnuts, and refreshing drinks to visitors, just as I experienced, adding a genuine touch of local life and hospitality.
Pocitelj is a place full of spirit and beauty, and a stop that is absolutely worth visiting when you are in Mostar.
Jablanica Bridge
During the Battle of the Neretva in World War II, Tito the leader of Yugoslavia and his Partisans were under heavy attack by Axis forces. To outmaneuver the enemy, Tito was clever so he ordered the destruction of the bridge over the Neretva River to give the impression that his forces were cutting off their own escape route, leading the Axis forces to believe that the Partisans intended to stay on the western side of the river. After destroying the bridge, Tito secretly rebuilt it overnight, allowing his forces to cross to the eastern side of the river, thus escaping the Axis encirclement. This strategic trick turned the tide in their favor, enabling them to continue their resistance against the Axis forces.
The event was later immortalized in the 1969 Yugoslav film “Battle of Neretva,” where the bridge was destroyed again for cinematic purposes. The remains of the bridge still lie in the Neretva River, symbolizing this significant historical event.
Best tips for Mostar visit
- To travel from Sarajevo to Mostar, taking the train is a great option. The journey is very comfortable and offers a beautiful scenery along the way. However, it’s important to note a few key points: Ticket Purchase: Do not buy your tickets online. Despite the availability of online ticketing options, the tickets purchased online are often not accepted. You’ll need to buy your tickets at the train station instead. Queue Early: It’s advisable to arrive early and line up, as the ticket booths can have long queues. This will ensure you have enough time to purchase your ticket before the train departs.
- Mostar is stunning in the early hours while the city is still sleeping. Taking a walk and capturing photos away from the crowds is a wonderful idea.
- Eating in some of the riverside restaurants in Mostar, especially at night, is an amazing experience you have to try. After a delightful meal, taking a walk through the old town while listening to the music from the pubs is a true blessing.
- Hire a car to visit the picturesque Kravica waterfalls at your own pace. The road is good and easy to drive, and you just need a GPS or Google Maps for navigation. For more driving tips click here.
- When visiting Počitelj, make sure to wear comfortable shoes, as you will be climbing many stairs. If you have difficulty with stairs, the town might be challenging to explore fully. However, you can still enjoy a view of the old town from the bottom near the Han and the restaurants, where the charm of Počitelj can still be appreciated without the climb.
- If there is a place that felt like heaven for me in Bosnia, it is Blagaj Tekija. We were there in the afternoon when the sun was soft, challenging ourselves to put our feet in the cold water of the river. Then, having tea at the coffee shop by the river while watching the ducks was so relaxing and beautiful. Blagaj Tekija is a must visit place when you are in Mostar.
- I highly recommend a visit to the Jablanica Bridge as it’s a great way to discover the area of Jablanica. The journey to the bridge is full of beautiful stops with breathtaking views, making it an enriching experience for anyone exploring the region.
- Your visit to Jablanica won’t be complete without trying the grilled lamb on charcoal. I’ve never seen whole lambs rolling on the charcoal before, and it’s truly a sight to behold. I’m sorry for vegan people, but they can’t imagine what they’re missing. Our experience at Restoran Kovacevic Jablanica was amazing, and I highly recommend it. The food is delicious, and the view is like heaven.
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